Cradle of Forestry

The Cradle of Forestry is an area dedicated to teaching and preserving the idea of National Forests. When logging was so extensive in the Appalachian range, Mr. Biltmore dedicated an expanse of land for training forest rangers and botanists to learn how to manage forest areas. There is a small museum for kids to learn about forest animals, duties of a ranger, control burns, resources, and plants. The museum is kid friendly with hands-on exhibits and a scavenger hunt. The Cradle also has a cafe, a small theatre with a film about history of forestry, a nice gift shop, and an out door amphitheatre. We took the Porvazniks and Symonds over there one day to the museum and had a great picnic, too.

In July, they host the Songcatcher Series with various Appalachian bluegrass and ballad singers. This music is performed just as much for the sake of preserving cultural history as well as showcasing regional music. Their voices are nice in a certain way, but these people would not win American Idol. But, when they close their eyes and moan out these songs, it is mesmerizing to me. Anyway, we had planned on seeing Sheila Kay Adams, but the line-up was changed to Donna Ray Norton and Melanie Rice, who are cousin and daughter to Sheila Kay.

Before the performance, we were in the bathroom and these ladies were changing clothes. I thought their faces looked familiar (from a website on regional singers). So, I introduced myself and we launched into a conversation right there in the stalls about how excited we were to be there today. How sorry we were to miss hearing Sheila Kay since we loved her so much a couple years ago in Asheville. Sadly, she was absent this day as she has cut her touring down because her husband died not too long ago. He was Jim Taylor, who is quite famous for bluegrass also. I didn't know he was dead, so that was weird. They were happy to see Alma's interest in learning Appalachian music and told her to stick around after the show so they could hear her!!

It was hot outside and most spectators had yard chairs or quilts back in the shady area; but, not us! No siree, we were up front sweating in the sun. Alma wanted me to film all of the concert so that she could study the songs later. Afterward, she sang Miss Margaret for them and did a beautiful job.

Donna Ray had a couple of CD's for sale that we bought and she gave us a headsup about other bluegrass festivals we might like. Since then, we have become facebook friends. She has a website where you can hear samples. Most of these songs are about fighting, dying over a lover, drunkeness, and adultery. Alma hopes to perform on a stage someday, and Chloe has learned a couple of them also. That'd make any mama proud.

Alma got lots of attention that day, but Chloe did not get left out. I bought her a small Folkmantis baby possum in the gift shop. She was loving on it when a ranger asked her about what she had. "Well, it's a baby possum. I found it in the gift shop and it had no mama. So, I dopted it, named it Sam, and I will raise it and teach it to sleep upside down in trees and how to find it's food in trash cans." The ranger was relieved to know that Sam will have a good home.

This is a spot in Fort Tatham Creek that I can access behind a small church. It is not on or connected to Mrs. Smith's property, but a very short golf cart drive away. Brent played here with neighbor boys when he was a kid. He has Brad explored this creek for lots of years. I began coming to NC with Brent's family when I was in high school, and we would wade an area of this creek and look for special rocks for him to paint on. Now, I bring the kids to play while I put my feet in the cool water and read or just daydream. Sometimes, I still get in and play with them. They coat themselves with mud and become "creek monsters". They throw rocks trying to perfect that skipping technique. We take the golf cart and just strip down to panties when we enter the thicket of trees. There is not much point in muddying clothes or a swimsuit since it is such a private retreat. Then, the girls ride with a towel back around them back to the house. Some little pools are deep enough to swim in. The water is always cold and refreshing. After a good rain, we can't go in the creek because it stirs the clay bottom up so that it is muddy. Even though they like to play in the mud, swimming in it is not so good and maybe not safe as we do have to watch for snakes. I enjoy rocky, fast creeks like Deep Creek and wide, slower ones like Ocunaluftee. Creeks are just about one of my very favorite ones from almost rivers to tiny, gurgling streams. I like to find shady bubbling places that seem so private to enjoy a time by yourself. The sound of the water is so relaxing. But, I return over and over to this place since it is convenient and holds so many memories for me. When I am in Florida, daydreaming about the mountains, I imagine this water running over the rocks eternally even when I am not there to enjoy it.

Cherokee

Cherokee is one of my least favorite parts of WNC. I really do like to learn about the history of the Cherokee and I enjoy their culture and crafts. However, the strip in town that tourists get to see is such an exploitation. It is full of little tomahawks made in China and cheap tshirts. The neon lights and "chiefs" dancing with pink hula hoops in hopes of a dollar in their bucket is so trashy. I dread the visit; but, kids just have to go there to experience the Cherokee Indian side of the Smokies. So, I will highlight the parts that I do enjoy. The museum gift shop is great. It is authentic and has good prices. All of the kids got these little pocket knives. Outside of the gift shop is this huge stature of Sequoyah's head. I like to remind the kids who he was and that he is responsible for the Cherokee language (and later other tribal languages) being saved by creating an alphabet for writing. There is a Big Boy that my Ohio born friend Samantha was so excited to revisit. They have an Ohio burger with tartar sauce ??? and a Southern version that is just like a Big Mac. We both enjoyed our very own heritage burgers to go. The creek is Cherokee is just perfect for little ones to play in and tube. It is not too rough and rocky, but the current is still really fun. I enjoy taking a book, or catching a nap in my chair while the kids play. Gah really enjoys Harrah's Casino about once a week. She plays quarter slots for cheap entertainment and a social afternoon out with friends. The cigarette smoke is so intense that she comes home stinking like an ash tray. While I was relaxing creekside with Jill and Sam, I saw some old friends walk by. Seeing Brad and Maria Avans all the way from Leesburg, Florida, was such a surprise! It was so good to chat with them and see their kids; hopefully, we will get to visit with them some more when we get back to Florida.

Gem mining is one of the touristy things to do around here. I am aware that there is some valid and valuable aspects to gem mining in The Smokies. People find rubies, sapphires, emeralds, garnets, and other stuff. But, when you find the real stuff, it just looks like a nondescript rock unless you have it cut and polished by a jeweler. Kids just aren't that into the real thing and it can be expensive for just something to fill an afternoon. While Jill and Sam were here visiting, and again when Jennifer was here, we got to take the girls to Sheffield's Mine outside of Franklin. I really like Sheffield's, because they sell a rainbow bucket for kids to find things that they can be excited about. It costs ten dollars and they get two good-sized buckets. They pour it in a real tray and get their hands in it. It might not be a ruby, but it is the kinds of rocks and geodes that they might want to buy from a museum gift shop. So, not a bad price for a quart size bag of colorful rocks. It's a nice drive out there through Cowee with some gorgeous valleys. On the first trip, I had six girls to myself (cause Jill and Sam stayed at the house to help with a paint spruce up). I was short about 5 dollars and this outfit does not take visa. Alma is a big girl with a great attitude, so she was willing to sit out and let the others do this with the promise we would return with out next set of guests. The guy behind the counter overheard and said to let her have the buckets and on my return I could pay the extra. So, the next week, I gave him 5 dollars extra. I don't think he remembered me, but he was so nice about it all. So, anybody out there finding this because you googled ruby mining, take the kids to Sheffield's; you won't be disappointed.

Nick and Nate's

Nick and Nate’s is my favorite restaurant. I enjoy different kinds of restaurants for different occasions, company, and moods; but, Nick and Nate’s is my all-around anytime favorite. In North Carolina anyway. In ’94, when Brent and I honeymooned here, we were wandering around on Main deciding where to have supper. We decided on Andretti’s, which was a very casual zero-atmosphere Eyetalian place. (Eyetalian because that is how it is pronounced up here.) Mr. Andretti himself could be seen in the open window to the kitchen throwing his truly wonderful pizza dough with a cigarette held between his lips. That’s still allowed up here. But, even if a few ashes fell into it, it did not matter. We were so hooked on Andretti’s pizza that for several years, we couldn’t wait to return to it.

One year, we went with mouths watering for Andretti’s…and it was not there! We were in shock over our disappointment, but hungry enough that we went into see what had attempted to take it’s place. The waiter welcomed us and explained that Andretti’s sold his restaurant to Nick and Nate’s which is like the one on Main in Waynesville. Well, we were unaware of any Nick and Nate’s in Waynesville; and, how could this have happened to us while were in Florida and so unaware of changes taking place up here between summers?

But, the menu was enticing and I could already see they were doing something about the atmosphere problem by hanging old junk everywhere. It’s sort of like Cracker Barrel style, but sloppier and more eclectic with some local flare. I felt unloyal to poor old Andretti who much be somewhere with just a cigarette and no pizza dough. But, despite my feelings of guilt I developed a new passion that evening for Nick and Nate’s.

They have specialty pizzas with names like The Nantahala which is a miracle with spinach, pesto, feta; which, sounds Greek but is slightly different from The Mediterranean though. There’s The Barnyard for the meat cravers and a delicious Farmhouse for veggie lovers. The wings are great. The onion rings are perfect. They serve interesting local beer. And their homemade ranch dressing makes you actually crave a salad and, then, not wanting to give up the last bit, start dipping pizza crust in it. They also have a lunch buffet: a good way to get a fix for less money and time. I wish I could work there; the waiters seem to be so happy to see you and proud of what they bring to your table. (Plus, the Waynesville location has this really cute waiter who looks kin to The Rock.)

We’ve enjoyed both locations depending on where other activities take us for the day and have shared it with lots of family and friends who generally agree with our enthusiasm. (Uncle Fred did not like the pasta and they did not give free bread with it; so, don’t order spaghetti.) One of the most romantic things Brent has ever given me is a Nick and Nate’s shirt from one of our Thanksgiving Sylva trips. Once, after driving north all day from home, at a gas station just before getting to the house to unload, Curtis said, “Let’s don’t unpack. Let’s just go straight to Nick and Nate’s.” He’d been craving it all day and just couldn’t wait anymore. He did not have to ask twice; but, once again, were stricken that our place on Main was closed! So, in desperation the next day we drove the short distance to Waynesville. A waiter filled us in on the demise of the Sylva restaurant. It seems that there was a disagreement between the landlord and restaurant owner that required a fight..a real one in the street and calling the police…that caused them to close and rebuild a new one near the hospital. I am really looking forward to it and have been for two summers already. They are supposed to open on August 15th. I’ll miss the old one which is now replaced by an Ironstone Grill Steakhouse that was ok, but just did not do it for me.

Main Street, Sylva

There is something so appealing to me about Main Street in Sylva. This is the Jackson County Courthouse in Sylva. It makes we want to sing Dixieland Delight or something. On the 4th, Sylva does fireworks that go over this courthouse; but, they didn't this year due to some construction. (That's why we spent the night of the 4th in Bryson City for fireworks.) Main Street businesses have to cater to special interests or have a certain charm to compete with Walmart. Sylva's Main has an In Your Ear Music that is very unique, Jackson's General Store, Blackrock Outfitters, Friends of the Library, and some other things. Chloe is enjoying a cupcake at Annie's Organic Bakery. Some of our crew is chillin on a bench outside of the Ironstone Grill which is a steakhouse that took the place of Nick and Nate's. Nick and Nate's is relocating and I miss it being on Main very much.

Waynesville Pool

We participated in a week of "Everybody Wins Summer Reading Program" at Lifeway Community Church. At the end of the week, we got an invite to go along with two other families to the Waynesville Pool. It is a very nice facility with slides, olympic lanes, water spouts, and enough chlorine to burn your eyes up. Alma and Chloe have enjoyed making new friends and we were so excited to get to go to a public pool. We are very fortunate to have Nina and Grandpa's pool in Florida, but have never been in a public pool! Anyway, it was a fun little day.

July 4th

I just realized that I never posted pictures from our 4th of July weekend. We had a houseful of fun going on for several days. Jennifer and Brad and the boys were here, Mama, Robert and Dee, Fred and MaryAnne, and Brent, too! And, Jill, Curtis, Kevin, and Toni, and Tiffany came over for the bbq since they were only a few miles away in Toni's grandparents (Bill and Betty Hill). We had about 30 people over for Robert's smoked chicken and pork and lots of other good dishes. We invited some good friends from Fort Tatham Campground to join us for the occasion. These are good friends who have spent many summers with Papa and Gah, so I was glad to people able to help Gah host a "feed", as Papa would have called it!
Then, some of us went to Bryson City for fireworks. I can remember lots of laughter and all kinds of stuff going on--such a shame I did not write immediately, because now, I just have pictures and knowledge that we had a good time.
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David and Cecelia

I've been attending Lifeway Community Church in Sylva. Brent and I have visited several times in the past; so, I was already familiar with it. It is much like a Vineyard Church. Anyway, I went to a Monday night Bible study led by David and Ceceilia Burress. He shared a funny story about living in Polk County, Florida for about a year about 20 years ago. He got so fed up with it, and thought he was running back home to the mountains, but he realized he was going the wrong way when he saw signs for Miami. We laughed so much about this, as flatlanders have a difficult with directions in the hills. David says up here, people don't so much mind the north and south directions, but prefer "up river and down river." He is a welder and blacksmith. He GAVE me a push lawn mower to help with keeping up with the yard--another guy at the study fixed it up some, sharpened the blade, and delivered it to me! David and Cecelia invited us to come out to their house to participate in some blacksmithing. Another family was planning to be there and the stuff would be hot. Finding it was an adventure in itself--not far off the highway, but really deep ruts in the road and steep drop offs. David is very humble and quiet about his talents; but, he has quite a list of credentials from working on the Biltmore horse stables, the North Carolina State Fair, and the John C. Campbell Folk Art School. I considered it an honor to get to spend time with these locals who obviously love children and sharing their talents. Chloe got to hold the drum that David's great great grandpa beat in the Civil War! She also got to try on chainmail armor that their son made for a homeschooling show years ago. He helped both girls make a hook, which is a good first lesson in blacksmithing. In return for their lesson, they helped Cecelia shuck corn for her chickens. Chloe hopes that we get to return again for more corn shucking. We all enjoyed our visit and stayed much longer than we'd planned because it was just so relaxing and interesting.

Panthertown Preserve

We hiked in Panthertown while Brent was with us. It is the place that I fell in the water while taking a picture with my blackberry. It is connected to the Pisgah National Forest, but not part of it. Panthertown is nicknamed the Yosemite of the South because of its vast views, rocky terrain, and waterfalls. It is very remote and the trails are not well marked. Mom and I came out here with the girls a couple of years ago, and I've wanted to take Brent ever since. It is a very strenous hike, but worth it. We only saw two other people while we were on the trail. There were other cars at the trailhead, but we did not see the people. We had to step over lama poop as some people rent them to take them through the area. We walked to one waterfall and took pictures before we found what we were actually looking for: Granny Burrell falls. You can climb all over it and swim all around. At the bottom is a deep pool. If you jump in, the churn pushes you back up and out again. The girls did this over and over, "just one more timeee!!" Brent did it once-- its very cold! Chloe said this one was her very favorite day because it was an adventure. Alma hunted sassafrass leaves and crushed them to smell the rootbeer scent. We walked through an old pine forest that looked like Hansel and Gretel. But, the waterfall was surely the best part and one we will hopefully return to.